Jul. 4th, 2020

evaelisabeth: (Default)
Gebende
Barbette/Gorget-Fillet/Toque

I'm looking at three particular statues in Naumburg Cathedral, the famously beautiful Uta, the laughing Reglindis, and the oft neglected Gerburg. All three are wearing the same style of headgear called a Gebende in German it consists of a Barbette/Gorget which is a band that wraps under the chin and is somehow attached to the head in an undetermined way (although to me there's only one sensible way to do this) and disappears under the Fillet/Toque which is relatively tall when seen straight on, taller than the highest point of the head, and which is not pleated or ruffled like the ones seen in the Mannesische Liederhandschrift. You can just about see the top of the heads of two of the ladies in some pictures and they are depicted with a smoothly closed lid. The hair by all three is worn in what looks to be a simple single braid.

So I love that I could dress my hair simply in a braid when wearing this. I can't really see any sensible way to wear the Barbette/Gorget other than joined and pinned at the top of the head. Then it's simply a matter of putting on the Fillet/Toque and adding your crown if you have one. You probably wouldn't even need to pin down the hat part because there would be plenty of friction with the Barbette/Gorget to keep it in place.

So, up to now in the SCA, I've always been told that Fillets/Toques are simply crown-shaped fabric headbands. Now I'm looking for the evidence that prescribes that. I've found another picture of the lovely Margaretha from her grave in the Liebfrauen-Münsterkirche zu Roermond. Here it seems relatively clear that there is a top to the Fillet/Toque she is wearing. So my current task is finding depictions that show them to be open.

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